Top bar hives appeal to people who want a simpler, more natural style of beekeeping. They’re one of the oldest movable-comb designs. Arkansas Extension notes the idea dates back to ancient Greece, and modern versions have been promoted since the 1970s as a low-cost alternative to frame hives. In the US they’ve become popular with backyard beekeepers who don’t want to lift heavy boxes.
They’re not the easy choice for every beginner, though. This guide covers how they work, the two main designs, dimensions, honest pros and cons, and what to know before you build or buy one. For how they compare with other hives, see our hive type guide.
How a top bar hive works
A top bar hive is essentially one long box, usually set on legs at waist height:
- Top bars span the width of the box, side by side, forming the roof of the cavity. Each bar has a comb guide along its underside, such as a ridge, a wooden strip, or a line of beeswax, so the bees start comb in the right place.
- The bees build comb downward from each bar. Because the comb attaches only along the top, each comb can be lifted out individually and inspected, which makes it a movable-comb hive.
- A follower board is a divider that fits snugly inside the box. Arkansas Extension explains that you move it to control how much space the colony has, adding empty bars as the colony grows.
- A roof covers the bars, and many hives include an observation window in the side.
The brood nest is usually near the entrance, with honey stored at the far end. To expand the hive, you move the follower board back and add empty bars. Arkansas Extension notes that an empty bar placed between two straight, drawn combs is the best way to get the bees to build another straight comb.
Kenyan vs Tanzanian top bar hives
Arkansas Extension describes two common designs:
| Kenyan top bar hive | Tanzanian top bar hive | |
|---|---|---|
| Sides | Sloped, narrowing toward the bottom | Straight, vertical |
| Comb shape | Rounded at the bottom, like natural comb | Rectangular |
| Comb attachment | Bees tend not to attach comb to sloped walls | More attachment to the sides |
| Comb volume | Less per bar | More per bar |
| Ease of inspection | Easier: combs lift out cleanly | Harder: combs may need cutting free |
Because natural comb is rounded at the bottom, bees seem to treat sloped walls like a floor and leave them unattached. That’s why most US backyard top bar hives use the Kenyan design.
Top bar hive pros and cons
Pros:
- No heavy lifting. You lift one comb at a time, at waist height. This is the main reason people choose top bars.
- Cheap and simple to build from ordinary lumber, with no foundation or specialized parts. Bees for Development notes top bar hives can be made from local materials, which is why they’re widely used in developing countries.
- Gentler inspections. UAF Extension notes that opening the hive one bar at a time means fewer bees fly up around you.
- No extractor needed. You harvest by cutting comb, then eating it as comb honey or crushing and straining it.
- More beeswax. Each harvest yields wax as well as honey.
- Natural comb. Bees build their own cell sizes without foundation, which appeals to natural beekeepers.
Cons:
- Less honey. Arkansas Extension notes top bar hives tend to produce less surplus honey than Langstroth hives, partly because bees must rebuild comb after each harvest. Montana State Extension also notes harvested comb can’t be reused.
- Fragile comb. Combs attach only along the top. Arkansas Extension warns a full comb can weigh 5 pounds or more and can break off if tilted, especially when warm.
- Crooked comb. Comb built across two bars has to be corrected early, or the bees keep building crosswise.
- No standard nucs. Nucs are sold on Langstroth frames, which don’t fit.
- Hard to move or expand, since you can’t add boxes.
- Harder winters. UAF Extension notes overwintering may be more difficult in a horizontal hive, and that top bars appear to work better in warmer states.
- Less local help. Fewer mentors keep top bars, so you’ll do more learning on your own.
Top bar vs Langstroth at a glance
| Top bar | Langstroth | |
|---|---|---|
| Lifting | One comb at a time | Full boxes, up to 70+ pounds |
| Honey yield | Lower | Higher |
| Comb | Natural, rebuilt after harvest | On foundation, reused after extraction |
| Harvest | Crush and strain, or comb honey | Extractor |
| Nucs | Don’t fit | Standard |
| Expansion | Move the follower board | Add boxes |
| Mentors and parts | Limited | Everywhere |
Our Langstroth setup guide covers the alternative in detail.
Is a top bar hive good for beginners?
It can be, but it’s not the easiest start. A top bar hive suits a beginner who:
- Can’t or doesn’t want to lift heavy boxes
- Is comfortable starting with a package or a swarm rather than a nuc
- Wants comb honey and beeswax more than maximum honey
- Lives in a mild climate, or is prepared to insulate well for winter
- Can find a mentor or club member who keeps top bars, or is happy to learn largely from books and online communities
If you want the most local help, the easiest start with a nuc, or the most honey, a Langstroth is the better first hive. Many beekeepers start with a Langstroth and add a top bar hive in year two. Our plan for your first season covers the decision in context.
Top bar hive dimensions and design
Top bar hive designs vary a lot. There’s no single standard like the Langstroth, so check that any plan you use gets the critical dimensions right.
| Dimension | Typical value | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Top bar width | 1 3/8 in (35 mm) or 1 1/2 in (38 mm) | Arkansas Extension |
| Bar spacing, center to center | 36 to 38 mm for European honey bees | Bees for Development |
| Side angle (Kenyan) | About 30° from vertical | Bee Mindful plans (Les Crowder) |
| Top bar length | Often about 17 to 19 in, depending on the plan | Varies by plan |
| Hive body length | Often about 3 to 4 ft | Varies by plan |
Bar width is the one that matters most. Arkansas Extension calls it the only critical dimension. A 1 3/8-inch bar centers one comb on each bar with half a bee space on each side. Bees for Development warns that if the bar width is wrong, the bees build comb across bars, and the hive “becomes just a very expensive fixed comb hive.” Some beekeepers use 1 3/8-inch bars in the brood area and 1 1/2-inch bars at the honey end, where comb is thicker.
Depth matters too. Deeper hives give more room per comb but more risk of heavy combs breaking off. Many plans keep the depth to about a foot.
Building a top bar hive
Top bar hives are one of the easiest hives to build, which is part of their appeal. General guidance:
- Use a published plan that specifies bar width and spacing. Les Crowder’s standardized plans on Bee Mindful are freely available.
- Use untreated lumber. Arkansas Extension warns that treated lumber contains insecticide and should never be used for hives.
- Get the bars right first. Cut them accurately and add a comb guide to each one.
- Include a follower board cut to fit the hive’s profile closely.
- Build it sturdy and at a working height, with a roof that sheds rain.
- Consider an observation window with a cover, so you can check comb building without opening the hive.
Getting bees into a top bar hive
Since standard nucs come on Langstroth frames, most top bar beekeepers start with:
- A package of bees, installed directly into the hive. Have several empty bars with good comb guides in place.
- A swarm, which builds comb quickly and readily.
- A top bar nuc, if you can find a local seller who offers one.
Some beekeepers cut Langstroth nuc comb to fit top bars, but it’s messy and stressful for the colony. Planning for a package is simpler.
Managing a top bar hive
| Task | How it differs from a Langstroth hive |
|---|---|
| Inspections | Lift one bar at a time and keep comb vertical. Never turn comb flat, especially in heat. |
| Comb straightness | Check new comb often, and remove or correct comb built across bars right away. |
| Expansion | Move the follower board and add empty bars between straight combs. |
| Harvest | Cut capped honeycomb from bars at the honey end, then eat it as comb honey or crush and strain it. |
| Feeding | Use a feeder that fits behind the follower board or in an empty section. |
| Winter | Insulate the roof and reduce the space with the follower board. Horizontal hives can be harder to overwinter in cold climates. |
| Mites and pests | Monitoring and treatment are just as important as in any hive. |
Buying a top bar hive
There’s no big selection of top bar hives on Amazon, but a few are available. What to look for:
- Bar width of 1 3/8 inches (or a mix of 1 3/8 and 1 1/2) with built-in comb guides
- Sloped (Kenyan) sides, for combs that release cleanly
- At least two follower boards
- An observation window with a cover
- Legs or a stand at a comfortable working height
- A weatherproof roof and good ventilation
- Untreated wood
Two examples we found that meet most of these:
- Gold Star Honeybees Top Bar Hive kit: made in Maine. Per the listing, it includes 30 beveled top bars (17.5 × 1.375 in), two follower boards, a glass observation window, and a screened bottom, with pre-drilled parts. The company’s founder wrote The Thinking Beekeeper, a guide to top bar beekeeping.
- MtnViewHoney Top Bar Beehive: cedar, about 40 in long. Per the listing, it has a telescoping lid, screened bottom board, plexiglass viewing window, removable stand, and top bars with comb guides.
We haven’t used either hive. The details come from the listings. If you’d rather start with a standard hive, see our beehive starter kit comparison.
Common questions
What are the standard dimensions for a top bar?
Arkansas Extension gives 1 3/8 inches (35 mm) or 1 1/2 inches (38 mm) as the top bar width, and calls it the only critical dimension. Bar length varies by plan, often around 17 to 19 inches.
Do top bar hives produce less honey?
Yes, generally. The bees have to rebuild comb after every harvest, because harvested comb can’t be reused. In exchange, you get comb honey and more beeswax.
Can you put a nuc in a top bar hive?
Not a standard one. Nucs are sold on Langstroth frames, which don’t fit top bar hives. Start with a package, a swarm, or a nuc from a seller who offers top bar nucs.
Do top bar hives survive winter?
They can, but horizontal hives can be harder to overwinter, because the cluster moves sideways rather than up through its stores. Insulate the roof, reduce the space with the follower board, and make sure honey is next to the cluster. They tend to do better in milder climates.
Why are skep hives illegal?
Skeps are woven baskets with fixed comb that can’t be removed for inspection. Many states require movable-comb or movable-frame hives so apiary inspectors can check for diseases like American foulbrood, which rules skeps out for managed colonies.
Sources and further reading
- University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension, Basic Beekeeping 2: The Bee Hives
- Montana State University Extension, Housing Honey Bees
- University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension, Choosing the Perfect Hive
- Bees for Development, Top bar hives
- Bee Mindful, Standardized horizontal top-bar hive plans (Les Crowder)
- Nevada Revised Statutes 552.230, Bees and Apiaries
- Gold Star Honeybees Top Bar Hive kit (Amazon listing specifications)